My engineering style is keeping the bike as OEM as possible, I modify the OEM clutch perch and use high quality aftermarket parts such a DOMINO & BREMBO to complete the package.
However getting the right clearance requires trial and error until there is no fouling.
Left hand ride kits include:
1) Throttle of your choice (OEM, DOMINO & MOTION PRO) *
2) Clutch Perch (OEM depending on model)
3) Master Cylinder (Brembo, Gale Speed & OEM)
ECU OR DME may be required if ride by wire*
Things to consider:
ETHROTTLE VS CABLE
Ethrottle is drive by wire (S1000RR) which means your ECU and throttle needs to be reversed. This set up is quite costly unfortunately, however worth the effort.
Cable throttles are simpler to convert (CBR600RR) but requires patience as there is less clearance. Using an OEM throttle and reversing the cables is a cheap alternative to aftermarket products, however sensitivity is impaired. From a lot of R&D, a DOMINO throttle with their three rotor gears is optimal. TPS may need to be calibrated (Power Commander).
Basic vs Expert Setup
1) Basic: OEM throttle with reversed cables, OEM clutch & R6 or equivalent OEM BREMBO MC.
This setup is great for just trying out going left hand ride however, due to the spacing gap its not recommended, especially when you need quick reactions.
2) Expert: DOMINO Throttle, modified OEM clutch & BREMBO RCS17 Clutch MC with half size lever.
From R&D, I have determined that this setup is optimal from track and road applications, regardless of the type of motorcycle.
Clutch Position (High vs Low)
Having the clutch lever close to the end of the handle bar allows you to use the clutch while on throttle. (For drag racing application)
Having the clutch sit up high allows you to run the basic setup, however it's very difficult to use in race or demanding/physical situations where you need to minimise time.
Throttle Choice
OEM VS DOIMO VS MOTION PRO
Master Cylinder choice
BREMBO VS GALE SPEED VS OEM
Clutch master cylinder vs brake master cylinder:
Virtually identical but a brake master cylinder has a residual check valve (small pressure in brake line to help brake engage quicker). I prefer the clutch not having this as it helps apply brakes smoother (initial contact) while trail braking.
Switches
I use aluminium switches (12v 10A) that are integrated in the clutch and MC housings. Red is the kill switch (latching activation) and black is the starter (momentary activation).
CLEARANCE
Using Steering dampers or low triple tree rubber plugs are necessary to prevent fouling.
Clutch play
To prolong the life of the clutch it is important to ensure clutch play is within factory specifications. A business card is a good guide.
Optimum setups for cable and drive by wire bikes!
DOMINO throttle (for cable bike), Clutch Master Cylinder, MC22 Perch, Switches integrated to the handle bar and using MS9220 sealing them.